Money, driving, dress codes, coffee culture and how the bus timetable really works. The questions first-timers ask us most.
We host first-timers every week, and the same questions come up over coffee before every tour. Here are the answers that make a first trip to Albania run smoothly, in the order people usually need them.
Money and costs
The currency is the lek, and cash still rules outside cities; carry it for village cafés, beach bars and furgon rides. ATMs are everywhere but choose bank-owned ones to dodge ugly fees. Watch out for the old-lek habit: locals sometimes quote prices in 'old lek' that have an extra zero. If a coffee sounds like it costs 1,000, it costs 100. Cards work in most Tirana and coastal restaurants now, but never assume.
Albania is still cheap: dinner for two with wine runs €25–35, a good double room €40–70, and a great byrek costs less than a euro.
Getting around
The intercity bus and furgon (minibus) network goes everywhere, eventually. Timetables are more of a mood than a schedule; furgons leave when full, and the 'station' is often just a known street corner. Ask your hotel, arrive early, enjoy the chaos; it works better than it sounds.
Driving is the freedom option. Roads are far better than their reputation, but drive defensively: overtaking is a national sport, and the last stretch to any beach or viewpoint is often gravel. Taxis are cheap; agree the price before you get in, or insist on the meter in Tirana.
Culture, coffee and manners
Coffee here is a social occasion. An espresso costs 70–100 lek and buys you a table for as long as you like; people hold meetings, friendships and whole retirements over one cup.
Albanians are very hospitable, and they mean it. Expect to be offered raki, directions, opinions and possibly lunch. A few words go a long way: faleminderit (thank you), mirëdita (good day). One quirk: a head shake can mean yes and a nod can mean no, so when in doubt, just ask.
Dress is relaxed everywhere tourists go. For mosques and churches, cover shoulders and knees, same rule as anywhere in Europe.
Safety, SIMs and small print
Albania is one of Europe's safest countries for tourists; violent crime against visitors is very rare. Use city common sense with phones and bags. Tap water is fine in the mountains, bottled is the norm on the coast. A local SIM or eSIM (Vodafone or One) gives you generous data for a few euros and works in every valley we've tested.
Tipping: round up or leave 10% for good service; it's appreciated, not demanded. Power sockets are the standard European two-pin. And the bus timetable, as we said, is worth repeating: build slack into travel days and let Albania set the pace.
Want to see it with a local?
Our small-group tours cover everything in this guide: pickup, guide and advice included.
