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Theth & Blue Eye Day Hike

Staying in Shkodra? That version adds the church, the lock-in tower and the Grunas waterfall. See the Theth day from Shkodra →

5.063 Google reviewsDay trip from Tirana or Durrës

Theth is a valley of stone houses at 750 metres, ringed by limestone peaks that go up past 2,400, and until the road was surfaced a few years ago getting there took most of a day on its own. Now it can be done as a return trip, which is how most people with a week in Albania see it.

Itinerary

For reference only. Itineraries are subject to change.

  1. 05:00

    Pickup and the drive north

    Early from Tirana, Durrës or Golem, north on the motorway with a coffee stop past Shkodra.

  2. 09:30

    Over the pass into Theth

    The road climbs to around 1,600 metres and drops into the valley. We stop at the top for the view down into it.

  3. 10:15

    The village, church and lock-in tower

    A short walk round the meadow, the church and the tower before the hike.

  4. 11:30

    Hike to the Blue Eye

    Up the Nderlysa valley, across the river and over rough ground to the pool. About four hours there and back, with time at the top to swim or sit.

  5. 15:00

    Lunch at a guesthouse

    Back in the village. Whatever the house is cooking, usually flija, cheese, beans and mountain tea.

  6. 16:00

    The drive home

    Back over the pass. Tirana and the Durrës coast between 20:30 and 21:30.

Experience & Highlights

  • Theth village, stone houses under 2,400-metre peaks
  • A short stop at the church and the lock-in tower
  • A four-hour hike up the Nderlysa valley
  • A swim in the Blue Eye of Theth, if you can take the cold
  • Home-cooked lunch in a village guesthouse

Full Description

The village is a short first stop: the white church on the meadow and the lock-in tower, where men under blood feud took refuge under the Kanun. On this day the hike is the point.

The Blue Eye of Theth, a separate thing entirely from the famous one in the south, is a two-hour walk each way up the Nderlysa valley to a pool of freezing turquoise water under a small fall. The path crosses the river and climbs over rough ground, so it suits people who walk regularly. Staying in Shkodra? Our Shkodra day spends about three hours less on the road and adds the church, the lock-in tower and the Grunas waterfall.

What's included

  • Hotel pickup and drop-off in Tirana, Durrës or Golem
  • 4x4 minibus transport over the pass
  • English-speaking mountain guide
  • Lunch at a village guesthouse
  • Bottled water

Not included

  • Alcoholic drinks
  • Hiking poles (available to rent, €3)

Good to know

  • This is a 14 to 16 hour day from Tirana or the coast. If you are staying in Shkodra, book the Shkodra day instead.
  • The Blue Eye walk is four hours return with rough ground and river crossings.
  • The road over the pass is surfaced now but narrow with no barriers in places. If that worries you, sit on the inside.
  • Runs May through October. Outside those months the pass closes with snow.

Good questions, honest answers

Is the Blue Eye of Theth the same as the one near Saranda?

No, they are two different springs at opposite ends of the country and it causes constant confusion. The southern one near Saranda is a large karst vent you drive to. The Theth one is a small turquoise pool under a waterfall, two hours on foot up the Nderlysa valley, and considerably colder.

How hard is the hike to the Blue Eye of Theth?

About four hours there and back on a rocky path, with a river crossing and a steady climb up the valley. It is not technical and anyone who walks regularly manages it. Wear boots or trail shoes with a good grip, not trainers.

Can you swim in the Blue Eye of Theth?

Yes, and most people at least get their feet in. The water comes straight off the mountain and is very cold even in August, so most swims are short. Bring a towel and a dry layer for the walk back.

Plan the rest of your trip

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